The hilltop village of St Moritz, Switzerland’s glamorous winter resort, has long been a draw for artists, creatives and British aristocrats. Wealthy winter travellers return here year on year for the rejuvenating Alpine views as much as its swish cultural calendar of summertime jazz festivals, the annual Snow Polo World Cup, a cricket tournament on ice and, most recently, its new Ikon Pass perks.
As the world’s oldest ski resort, St Moritz has its fair share of opulent grand dame hotels and luxury boutiques. Nestled in the quaint village of Champfèr, Giardino Mountain stands out for its relaxed elegance, luring a glittering coterie of well-heeled globetrotters. The hotel’s two-Michelin-starred “Ecco” is considered the crown jewel of St Moritz’s gastronomic scene. Whether unwinding in the spa or venturing out into the Engadin Mountains for your wellness fix, a stay here promises the healing power of rest and ritual.
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Location
Tucked away in the Engadin valley in the canton of Graubünden, St Moritz is easily accessible by car, train or private aviation. Getting to this stylish Swiss ski resort is all part of the experience, which is why we would recommend taking the scenic route aboard the Rhaetian Railway from Zurich. The route soars through a UNESCO World Heritage Site, passing glacial streams and raging rivers along the way. The wide, rectangular windows frame the landscape like a painting, offering cinematic views at every turn.
On arrival at St Moritz station, you’ll be picked up in a transfer and whisked off to Giardino Mountain. The hotel is located in Champfèr, a small village just ten minutes away from the main town and station by car. Shuttles run frequently to and from the ski lifts, or you can message the hotel to be picked up at a time that suits you.
Rooms & Suites
Rooms feel contemporary yet polished, with classic Alpine features and functional design. Each of the 55 rooms and 22 suites have a unique layout, so it’s worth calling ahead to request a floor plan for special queries. For space, you can’t go wrong with the Alpine Suite, an expansive guest room with exposed beams and warm tones, plus a separate bedroom for families travelling with children. Slip into the jacuzzi bath for a soothing post-ski soak, perfectly positioned away from the suite’s communal spaces for added privacy.
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The Junior Suite by reception has access to a sweeping communal terrace that overlooks the hotel’s ice skating rink. Inside, you’ll find his-and-hers sinks, a separate living room, and plenty of wardrobe space for your ski gear (ski boots are stored in a separate ski room with heated boot warmers). Opt for a Junior Suite on the second floor for an in-room bathtub and heaps of natural light. Double Rooms are just as cosy for short stays, complete with a coffee machine, fluffy bathrobes and toiletries from the hotel’s dipiù spa.
Dining
St Moritz has become a culinary hotspot in recent years, with plenty of atmospheric restaurants on and off the slopes. Giardino’s Ecco restaurant is top of the list, a two-Michelin-starred restaurant helmed by Chef Rolf Fliegauf and his fabulous team. The space is intimate, tucked underground, away from the world in a former 16th-century chapel adorned with opulent frescoes painted in gold.
After the champagne, the dishes arrive one after the other in a choreographed flourish. The amuse-bouche really sets the tone – a tiny but strikingly bold-flavoured horseradish pastry to be eaten in one fell swoop. Then came the poached oysters, served on crushed ice with green apple slices. Some dishes get playful and interactive, arriving with a pair of tiny scissors to trim a few herbs. It’s clear that creativity is at the core of Fliegauf’s menu, with strong Japanese influences. For dessert, the coconut ice cream with caviar and olive oil deserves a mention, mainly because it was so unexpectedly delicious. There’s the option to include wine pairing, with rare wines coming from Italy, Germany and Switzerland.
Giardino’s Hide & Seek restaurant is suave but laid-back. While breakfast is served here by day – a sprawling buffet with freshly baked pastries and local cheeses – the space is transformed into a sleek dinner spot in the evening. The three-course set menu includes fresh mountain ingredients sourced nearby, with a focus on seasonality and what’s fresh in the moment. Expect to try aromatic winter soups and seafood pasta, or light goat’s cheese salads best enjoyed on the terrace in the sun. For something more traditional, the rustic, hut-style Stüva restaurant by reception is where you’ll get to sample local Swiss dumplings unique to the Engadin valley.
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Dining slopeside? Langosteria is best known on the slopes for its marvellous seafood. Paradiso is just as popular for its DJ sets and mountain comfort food. Stop for hearty pasta dishes and Swiss classics at Chasselas, which is located at the entrance to the Suvretta ski lift and moments from the ski school. The sun-drenched terrace here always seems to be buzzy with lunch-goers, even early on in the season. The homemade blueberry cake here is worth the trip up and back down the mountain for a sugary pick-me-up.
Experiences
Beyond the slopes, Giardino Mountain offers a roster of high-calibre experiences. Wellness is a top priority, with the Engadin mountains on your doorstep. Choose from a selection of outdoor adventures, including hikes and cycle routes of all levels, passing the Engadin mountain lakes. Intrepid hikers should speak to the concierge for expert tips and recommendations. They’ll be able to point you in the right direction, depending on the weather conditions and any special requests.
The hotel’s spa has four saunas to choose from (bio, crystal, traditional and steam), plus a range of sumptuous treatments. We were treated to a soothing 90-minute hot stone massage using the hotel’s dipiù products. The treatment begins with an exfoliating almond oil and salt scrub, leaving the skin silky soft. Hot stones are used to activate the four chakras along the spine to promote wellbeing and deep relaxation. Gliding the hot stones along the neckline and shoulders will leave you floating on a cloud.
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St Moritz has long been a source of artistic inspiration for writers, thinkers and painters, including Friedrich Nietzsche, Giovanni Segantini and Jean Michel Basquiat – whose exhibition is now running at Hauser & Wirth (14 December – 29 March 2025). The Giovanni Segantini Museum is a good place to start to understand more about the area and its history. Segantini became a pivotal figure in the Engadin art scene, depicting vast Alpine landscapes inspired by rural Switzerland. The artist’s ‘Alpine Triptych’ is the most striking – a series of three colossal paintings that were originally put on display at the 1900 Paris World Exhibition, causing quite the stir (in a good way).
Service
Personable and attentive. No request is too much at Giardino Mountain, whether you’re organising a helicopter ride or a bespoke picnic in the mountains.
The verdict
Giardino Mountain is a supremely relaxing sanctuary for your ski holiday, with easy access to the slopes of St Moritz. The hotel’s very own Ecco restaurant comes out on top, as well as its nature-focused wellness offering and unparalleled level of service.
Details
- Instagram: @giardino.mountain
- Website: giardinohotels.ch
- Rates start from £710 per night
