August 30, 2025

La dolce vita at A-list Italian favourite, Villa d’Este

Known for its cinematic scenery, Italy’s Lake Como has long been a playground for aristocrats and wealthy globetrotters. Originally built as a summer home by architect Pellegrino Tibaldi in 1568, the 16th-century Villa d’Este, with its Italian Renaissance exterior, has been home to a roll call of royals who’ve added to its storied past. Most notably, Caroline of Brunswick – the estranged wife of George IV – made it her abode of choice at a time when affluent Europeans were flocking to the area on their grand tours.

It wasn’t until 1873 that the property was transformed into a hotel, now complete with 152 rooms and four private villas, five restaurants, a heated floating pool, plus an array of activities on and off the premises. Since then, Villa d’Este has continued to play host to a long list of well-heeled guests, from Edith Wharton to Elizabeth Taylor and Alfred Hitchcock, who used the grounds to film The Pleasure Garden. As of its 150th anniversary, Villa d’Este is now open year-round, offering a taste of la dolce vita well beyond the summer months.

the 16th-century Villa d’Este, with its Italian Renaissance exterior, has been home to a roll call of royals

Location 

Villa d’Este is located in Northern Italy’s Lombardy region on the Swiss border, set on the banks of Lake Como. Whether you arrive by helicopter, boat or car, there’s an aura of prestige that shrouds the property’s preserved exterior on entry. The drive from Milan airport is a swift and scenic 30-minute journey through the countryside, passing a mix of quaint villages and pastel-coloured villas along the way. 

Rooms & Suites

All 152 Renaissance-style guest rooms at Villa d’Este – scattered across the Cardinal Building and the Queen’s Pavilion – are as grand and opulent as the building’s exterior. Every room is different in design, connected by a regal colour palette and sumptuous silks to make you feel like royalty. The Cardinal Suite is in a league of its own, complete with a private terrace overlooking the lake.

The four villas at Ville d’Este are worthy of a scene from Succession, shrouded in centuries of history and aristocratic panache. Not only do they promise VIP levels of privacy, tucked away on the premises from the main hubbub of the Cardinal building, but they’re also excellent for group getaways and family get-togethers. 

Lady Gaga chose to stay at Villa Cima while filming House of Gucci

We stayed in Villa Garrovo, which features a vast living room bedecked in plush green velvet sofas, sparkling antique Murano chandeliers and speckled mosaic flooring. By the bookcase, you’ll find a cosy cocktail station with pre-made Manhattans and Martinis from the Avantgarde Spirits Company, next to archives of magazines on art and architecture.

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A separate kitchen area is well stocked with coffee pods, fresh orange and apple juice, tea bags and tea pots, plus a fruit bowl that’s magically replenished throughout the day. Nab the room closest to the living room and kitchen for soothing views of the glimmering lake, which can be peeped through the windows while sipping coffee in bed. Heaps of wardrobe space and multiple floor-length mirrors – so often a rarity in hotel rooms – ensure you’ll look the part, from tip to toe. The elegant, marble-clad bathroom is kitted out with bespoke toiletries, double sinks and an enormous bathtub.

For unobstructed views of Lake Como, the stately Villa Cima comes out on top. The villa, originally built in 1815, is spread over three floors with enough room to accommodate 10 guests across four bedrooms. A sprawling private terrace sits on the banks of the lake, where guests can enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner in total privacy. It comes as no surprise that Lady Gaga chose to stay at Villa Cima while filming House of Gucci, remaining in character as Patrizia Reggiani. The other two villas, Villa Malakoff and Mosaic House, are a stone’s throw away from the Cardinal building and main lobby, each with their own style, history and character. 

Dining

There are five restaurants to choose from at Villa d’Este, each with a different menu and level of formality. Head to Platano on arrival for the hotel’s signature club sandwich – a hefty post-flight snack made with crunchy ciabatta bread. The Grill – reportedly George Clooney’s favourite spot – is located by the Queen’s Pavilion, where you’ll find grilled meat and sumptuous seafood. For light snacks, Sundeck by the pool is the place to be for light bites and a mid-afternoon Aperol Spritz. 

Dinner at La Veranda is a formal occasion, bathed in natural light from the panoramic, floor-to-ceiling windows. Highlights from the menu include the fresh asparagus to start, followed by the prettiest plate of ravioli stuffed with spring pea and Sicilian red prawns. As for drinks, there’s a weighty, leather-bound wine menu, and unless there’s something specific that piques your interest, we’d recommend letting the sommelier work his magic. Be sure to save room for the crêpe suzette, a Villa d’Este classic prepared at your table on a crêpe-making trolley.

For breakfast, a lavish continental buffet is served at La Veranda. Expect fluffy pastries filled with homemade apricot jam, washed down with the finest Italian coffee served in decadent silver pots. For those staying in a private villa, breakfast can be ordered and brought straight to the door. Make the most of a slow morning in bed, knowing that your omelette and coffee are on the way.               

Beyond the hotel premises, Harry’s in nearby Cernobbio is a local, buzzy restaurant with alfresco seating and a jovial atmosphere. Stop by for handmade ravioli drenched in olive oil, paired with a frothy pineapple Bellini. 

Amenities

You could spend hours strolling through all 25 acres of Villa d’Este’s magnificent gardens. Start at the Mosaic Garden and its Nymphaeum, which leads up to a hulking statue of Hercules in combat just moments from a running waterfall.

There are shaded running trails just off to the right for a light jog around the steep inclines of a former palace. It’s difficult not to stop and start every two minutes to marvel at the fabulous views of the cobalt-blue waters, which seem to get more mesmerising the higher you go. 

A few hotels in the surrounding area have cottoned on to the niche appeal of a floating swimming pool, but Villa d’Este did it first. The pool is a show-stealer, perched on a floating rectangular platform that gently bobs up and down to the lapping waves below. Out on the estate, there are eight premium tennis courts and a squash court available for hire, plus a boutique indoor gym with access to a dry sauna and steam room. 

Experiences

There’s no shortage of activities at Villa d’Este through summer and winter. Start with a behind-the-scenes tour of the subterranean wine cellar stacked with row upon row of iconic and rare labels. The cellar is home to the largest collection of wine in Italy, with 150,000 bottles and counting. The sommelier’s encyclopaedic knowledge of the cellar is jaw-droppingly thorough. He glides past shelves of vintages we’ve never heard of, the oldest dating as far back as 1886. 

From there, slip into the kitchen for an intimate tour to see where the magic happens. Pastry chefs can be caught stirring pots of molten chocolate, the air thick with the scent of butter and sugar. During the Chef’s Experience, you’ll get to watch the pros in action, who’ll prepare mini versions of their favourite dishes on the menu alongside some of their childhood family recipes. 

Come rain or shine, a trip to Lake Como is incomplete without a private boat tour. The driver has extensive knowledge of the area, offering a commentary on the famous Renaissance villas that neighbour Villa d’Este. Gianni Versace’s former villa, Villa Le Fontanelle, can be spotted along the banks of the lake from a viewpoint on the water. 

Now open year-round, Villa d’Este’s winter experiences are worth shouting about. Hotel guests can be whisked away to the peaks of Monte Cervino for a day or two of skiing, where a luxury chalet awaits. Guided mountain hikes can still be arranged in the colder months, while classic car tours offer a stylish way to discover nearby St Moritz.

Service

Service is discreet and attentive, making every individual feel pampered and more than looked after. During the high season, the hotel operates a roughly 1:1 staff to guest ratio.

Verdict 

Inside and out, Villa d’Este is the epitome of Italian luxury. A short drive from Milan airport, the hotel is now open year-round for winter festivities. The option to stay in a private villa elevates the experience, catering to families and groups of all ages and sizes.