Treville Positano review: the former home of Franco Zeffirelli that still feels alive

A coastal gem filled with grandeur and a rich history, Treville Positano is made memorable by the people who inhabit it

Treville pairs dramatic coastal views with a relaxed, lived-in character // Image: Treville Positano

There is a connection between nostalgia and the time one spends in a place. However, this should not be taken as universal – some shorter experiences stay with us the longest. A trip to the hotel Treville Positano, home to stage and film director Franco Zeffirelli for over 40 years, is the kind of experience you know you will remember.

First, let us speak of Zeffirelli, a director, screenwriter, set designer and politician, and one of the most significant creatives of the post–Second World War era.

Franco Zeffirelli with Liza Minnelli, Eduardo De Filippo, Raimonda Gaetani and Tennessee Williams – a candid moment from one of Treville’s celebrated gatherings // Image: Treville Positano

His presence is felt throughout the hotel, and you leave with a sense of having come to know him, even if you had not heard of him before your stay.

From the décor, heavy on bold colours and whimsical symbolism, with objects placed for visual effect rather than function, to a philosophy built around leisure, discretion and a warm family spirit that the staff are clearly committed to carrying through, the hotel feels like Zeffirelli’s home rather than a luxury hotel.

This extends to a sense of belonging to history. Zeffirelli hosted numerous parties with distinguished guests, from Coco Chanel to Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton. Sting is said to have returned in recent years and remarked that it is exactly the same.

Location

Nestled into the cliffside of Positano on the western edge of the Amalfi Coast and overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea, the hotel enjoys a mild Mediterranean climate.

Cliffside terraces and quiet corners overlooking the Amalfi Coast // Image: Treville Positano

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Spear’s was collected from Naples airport, and the transfer to the hotel took just under an hour.

Rooms

The room Spear’s stayed in felt like a private residence, in keeping with Zeffirelli’s way of living. No two rooms are the same, with a clear focus on individuality rather than uniform design.

Natural light fills the space, highlighting a mix of antique furniture, soft fabrics and personal objects. Books, ceramics and artwork are placed in a way that feels natural rather than forced, giving the room a lived-in quality.

The Carmen suite balances colour, light and quiet restraint, reflecting Treville’s lived-in character // Image: Treville Positano

Blues, yellows and terracotta tones reflect the surrounding landscape of Positano, nodding to Zeffirelli’s creative background. The balance between comfort and detail is well judged, with inviting seating, generous beds and high-quality linens throughout.

The terrace is a defining feature, opening out to uninterrupted views of the Tyrrhenian Sea. It naturally becomes the place where most time is spent, whether in the morning or at sunset.

Bathrooms follow a similar approach, with marble finishes, handcrafted tiles and a considered layout that prioritises both function and style.

Dining

Dining at Treville is straightforward and rooted in the setting. Under Chef Vincenzo Castaldo, the menu draws on local produce, much of it grown on site, and focuses on simple Italian cooking done well.

Meals often begin with something uncomplicated. A plate of spaghetti with tomato arrives without embellishment. It is light, fresh and balanced, with the sweetness of the tomatoes carrying the dish.

Elsewhere, dishes are slightly more composed without feeling overly technical. A seasonal salad is lifted with shavings of truffle and a light dressing that brings everything together.

At dusk, the walkways and terraces take on a quieter, more intimate atmosphere above the coastline // Image: Treville Positano

A silky tagliolini arrives coated in butter and finished with truffle. It is rich, earthy and uncomplicated, and stays in the memory for its simplicity.

Nothing feels overworked, and the food reflects its surroundings.

Wellness & experiences

The same approach carries through to experiences beyond the kitchen. In a cooking class with Castaldo, we made ravioli by hand before eating it. The dish was served simply with butter and herbs, a reminder of how little is needed when ingredients are right and preparation is careful.

We also took part in a ceramics class with the distinguished Pasquale Liguori. It was relaxed and focused on process rather than outcome, shaping and painting pieces inspired by the colours and textures of Positano. Pasquale, a master in his field and a local artist who has brushed shoulders with Picasso, was equally at ease joining us for dinner, where conversation moved easily from football in Naples to more reflective themes.

Treville’s interiors blend theatrical design with understated comfort // Image: Treville Positano

A morning tai chi session was led by Danielle Barba, a Muay Thai professional fighter and host at Treville. I had very little experience and probably got a fair bit wrong, but it never felt uncomfortable. There was a relaxed and encouraging atmosphere that made it easy to take part and I came away having learnt more than expected.

Barba stood out as the best kind of host, an easy conversationalist who made everything feel natural from the outset. She was our travel companion, someone whose presence quietly shaped the experience. She is also a European champion in Muay Thai, and when we were treated to our early morning lesson by the rocky shore, she most probably rather kindly resisted the urge to laugh at my abilities.

Her energy reinforced something that became clear throughout the stay: people really do define a place.

That sense ran through Treville as a whole. From Barba to the waiters and chefs, there was a feeling of being looked after by what felt like an extended family – like being welcomed into someone’s home. This is perhaps the point of the experience here. The setting and its history are extraordinary, but it is the people who make it memorable.

Verdict

Treville Positano delivers on its promise of an Amalfi Coast stay that feels like the lavish home of Franco Zeffirelli – and of a memory that might never leave you.