The most striking thing about the newly opened Romeo Roma hotel is the stunning interior architecture. Swooping, flowing shapes, such as the lacquered ebony ‘trees’ in the main restaurant, bear the unmistakable design hallmarks of the late, great Zaha Hadid.
Work on the hotel began back in 2012, four years before Hadid’s death. As such, it is one of the last projects she contributed to. But it’s the juxtaposition of this modernist visual language with remnants of a classical past that makes the property truly extraordinary.
The building that now houses the second hotel from the dapper and somewhat controversial Neapolitan businessman Alfredo Romeo lies on the eastern bank of the Tiber, at the apex of three of Rome’s most important streets. It was previously a rather rundown office building but, long before that, it was a palace: the Palazzo Capponi, built in the 16th century.
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During the recent renovations it was discovered that the structure was also built atop historic Roman remains of a river port.
This complicated matters somewhat, but the ruins have been incorporated into the design: they are visible through the glass bottom of the courtyard swimming pool. Romeo’s reimagining of the building also included the restoration of 16th-century frescos, which adorn the walls of two of the hotel’s best suites.
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Improbably, the same suites also include hyper-modern synthetic materials, such as the fireplace surrounds made from Krion, a material that is often used in hospitals since it is easy to wipe down and therefore hygienic.
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In all, there are 56 rooms and 18 suites, the largest of which spans an impressive 3,200 sq ft. Another standout element is the food, which has been overseen by the Michelin magnet Alain Ducasse.
At Il Ristorante Alain Ducasse, the menu blends French culinary tradition with classic Italian ingredients, with some courses served on black Hermès plates decorated with geodesic patterns. (Try the puntarelle della campagna romana, which combines the classic Italian vegetable with anchovies and bufala cream.)
The critical reception of the hotel has been mixed, as one might expect for something so daring. At any rate, it hasn’t deterred Romeo himself, or his star-spangled chef de cuisine. The two are joining forces again for the opening of Romeo’s third hotel – Romeo Massa Lubrense near Sorrento, which is expected to open next year.
This letter first appeared in Spear’s Magazine Issue 95. Click here to subscribe
