Much has been written about the homogenisation of celebrity faces in recent years. The same could be said of their engagement rings. But last August Taylor Swift and Travis Kelce sent jewellery aficionados into a spin.
The singer’s huge diamond wasn’t your ubiquitous flashy oval. It was an elongated, cushion-cut antique diamond on an engraved gold band: the work of New York-based goldsmith Kindred Lubeck, who specialises in repurposing antique diamonds. Cue an onslaught of articles hailing the antique cut as the next big bridal trend.
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‘Taylor Swift’s engagement was an amazing catalyst to get people talking more about antique diamonds,’ says east London-based jeweller Rachel Boston, who launched a collection of antique diamond engagement rings in 2024.
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In a world where big, blingy, perfect diamonds can be manufactured in a laboratory in a matter of weeks, the appeal of natural diamonds that were forged over millions of years, cut and polished by hand, and have lived many different lives is magnified. ‘Clients are increasingly motivated by a desire for sustainability and unique character, and antique diamonds offer both,’ says Boston.
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Unlike lab-grown diamonds, the rising popularity of historical diamonds means connoisseurs must pay a premium for the very best. ‘Many antique diamonds have been recut to conform to modern tastes – the number of well-preserved original stones is continually decreasing,’ says Boston. ‘Finding exceptional antique diamonds requires patience.’
Having been cut by hand, the quality of antique diamonds varies dramatically. ‘There were good cutters and bad cutters. We’re only interested in diamonds produced by those at the very top of their game,’ says Guy Burton, managing director of British jewellery house Hancocks.
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Burton says only one in every 100 antique diamonds he sees possesses the ideal balance of depth, proportions and facet size. They are then set in handcrafted rings often inspired by the era in which the diamond was cut. Each entirely unique, rich in history and romance, they’re ready to play a starring role in their next love story.
This article first appeared in Spear’s Magazine Issue 99. Click here to subscribe
