When Luis Contreras first set eyes on a neglected lakeside estate in Lake Como, it was a far cry from the glamorous destination it is today. The crumbling structure and overgrown landscape might have deterred many, but for the Argentinian entrepreneur and his wife, Angelica, it kindled an ambition: to create a hotel that dared to be different.
Lake Como has long had a reputation for appealing to a certain type of traveller, one drawn to its unapologetic opulence – from the waterfront-lining châteaux to the wooden motorboats zipping along the lake. And of course, there is George Clooney, who turned the once-sleepy town into a paparazzi pilgrimage site when he purchased a home there in 2002. Since then, a glittering guest list has followed: Oprah, Madonna, Richard Branson and Donatella Versace, to name just a few.
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Since its opening in 2016, Il Sereno has attracted its share of the billionaire and Hollywood crowd, but through a very different approach. Eschewing the gilded charm of old-world palaces, it offers instead an elegant modernity, a refuge for those drawn more to serenity than ceremony.
Location & history
On the eastern shore of Lake Como in the village of Torno, the land on which Il Sereno sits used to house an estate that fell into disrepair. It was a chance tip-off from a guest staying at their Caribbean hotel, Le Sereno in St Barths, that led the Contreras couple to the forgotten corner of the lake.
The estate’s weathered condition proved a surprising advantage, smoothing the way for planning permission – no easy feat in Italy, especially in areas like Lake Como where villas and hotels have followed a similar script of white stucco facades and terracotta roofs.
But the real challenge for the entrepreneurial pair was conceptual: how to create something contemporary and pared-back in a town that had become known for A-list extravagance. To realise their dream, they turned to the talents of Spanish architect Patricia Urquiola – known for her work on Six Senses Rome and The Emory in London. The trio sought to create a hotel that simultaneously honoured the landscape but was distinct enough from its fellow five-star competitors along the shore.
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Il Sereno does not blend in, nor was it ever intended to. With floor-to-ceiling glass windows and vertical wooden slats, the hotel commands attention; it’s a common sight for guests reclining by the infinity pool to see motorboats slowing down to take pictures of the arresting facade.
Rooms
The hotel comprises just 40 suites – no standard rooms, in the name of exclusivity. A bonus for guests is that every suite faces the lake, while a select few enjoy dual views of both the lake and the infinity pool. For these views, we’d recommend opting for a corner suite or the penthouse.
The interiors are no less spectacular than the views. Urquiola’s signature green marble accent walls feature prominently in each suite and are complemented by soft blue and brown hues.
Equal attention is paid to the extra comforts: the bathrooms are stocked with custom amenities designed by French perfume house Ex Voto, and guests have access to 24-hour room service, twice-daily housekeeping and flat-screen TVs – but with the lake view through the windows, they’re hardly necessary. The minibar is complimentary (although the alcoholic beverages are extra) and is stocked with homemade snacks and soft drinks. And if those fail to satisfy, guests are met with freshly baked apricot panettone in their suites upon arrival – it’s a sweet but fleetingly delicious welcome.
For a more lasting memento, guests staying in the penthouse suite are treated to a unique experience: everything in the room is ‘shoppable’, from the sofas to the artwork. It’s proving a hit with the suite’s residents with one recent guest putting down an offer for a €12,000 vase (the housekeeping team, we’re told, is extra careful here).
The space spans 200 sqm with a wraparound terrace and private hot tub. While sleuthing the hotel’s social media accounts, I discovered the penthouse’s last guest was boxer Tyson Fury – though it’s more difficult to find out what item in the suite he might have put an offer on.
The newest addition to Il Sereno is the Listening Suite, the first of its kind in the world. Inspired by Japanese listening bars with its soundproof walls, high-end audio equipment and vintage vinyl collection, it’s a space designed for audiophiles to unwind and listen to music.
Dining
Il Sereno’s on-site restaurant Al Lago is led by chef Raffaele Lenzi and earned its Michelin star in 2017. Drawing on his Neopolitan roots, Lenzi reimagines his childhood favourites with a refined flair. Guests can choose from à la carte options or one of three tasting menus: Omaggio alla Tradizione (Homage to Tradition), A Modo Mio (My Way) or Vegetali Tuberi & Radici (Vegetables, Tubers and Roots). For classic Italian fare, the first menu offers an enjoyable and comfortable dining experience but for guests seeking something a little more experimental, the latter two present a creative twist.
The vegetarian menu, chosen on this visit, delivers a unique richness and was delightfully inventive and colourful. From yuca bark crusted with black garlic and spaghetti tossed in an oil made from two varieties of locally-grown olives to a smoky aubergine moutabal with a wild garlic pitta, each dish is masterfully created.
The most intriguing course might be dessert – a chilled fruit and vegetable soup containing 34 ingredients. Alongside a delicate coconut cream are slices of apples, dehydrated strawberries and rolled raw carrots with lettuce leaves, all drizzled with a pea and mint sauce. While some flavours are more elusive than others, the overall effect is unexpectedly refreshing, although admittedly unlikely to satisfy the avid sweet tooth. For those craving something more conventional, a second dessert of sesame tahini ice cream with a lemon mousse and herbal tea brings the meal to a pleasant close.
For guests not up to an eight-course marathon, the bar menu offers a lighter route: tomato and basil spaghetti, burgers or a Niçoise salad (just be prepared to scavenge for the toppings beneath the lettuce mound – ‘you have to hunt for the treasure,’ as one waiter explained).
Breakfast is its own little spectacle, served à la carte. A pastry trolley makes the rounds throughout the meal, and resisting a second helping of apricot panettone – the same kind left in each suite – is difficult.
Wellness & experiences
Il Sereno’s spa occupies what was once the boathouse of the original private estate. Now reimagined as a tranquil retreat, it sits tucked into a cove, with windows framing uninterrupted views of the lake.
The treatment menu is extensive and includes a range of facials and massages. A nice touch is that guests who book a treatment are given exclusive access to the spa facilities (a sauna, steamroom, infrared shower and lakeside jacuzzi) for a full hour in complete privacy. Those without a treatment booking can also request the concierge to arrange a private hour in the spa during less busy periods.
There are other activities to keep guests engaged, should a spa day be insufficient. Taking one of the hotel’s vintage Riva motorboats out on the lake is a quintessential Lake Como experience – mahogany polished wood, sun rays beaming off the water and the occasional glimpse of a celebrity villa. Guests can captain the boat themselves or opt for a guided tour.
Back on land, there are hiking trails, cycling excursions, cooking classes and short car rides (in the hotel’s custom-made Maserati) to nearby villages.
Verdict
Il Sereno is exactly as its name suggests: a haven of serenity, and offering a timelessness few could hope to imitate. It is truly one of a kind.
More information
Starting rate: £803 a night
Nearest airport: 1-hour drive from Milan Malpensa airport
Address: Il Sereno Hotel, Via Torrazza 10, 22020 Torno CO, Italy
Email for reservations: info@serenohotels.com
Website: Il Sereno Lago di Como
Images Credits: Il Sereno / Photographer: Patricia Parinejad
