Hartwell House, a National Trust-owned Jacobean and Georgian Grade I-listed house, was a refuge to the exiled Louis XVIII and his less-than-enthusiastic queen, for five years until the French king’s restoration in 1814.
As poet – and Hartwell House admirer – Lord Byron asked on the king and queen’s departure from this Buckinghamshire country house: ‘Why wouldst thou leave calm Hartwell’s green abode?’ A note in the guest book from a visitor some two centuries later echoes the poet’s view: ‘a special place’ it reads.
And it is. The house retains a sense of aristocratic ease and quiet, slightly faded, grandeur. The impressive Jacobean exterior gives way to architect Henry Keene’s substantial ‘Georgianised’ design house. The great hall makes an immediate impression with its massive fireplace often aglow with a welcoming fire, stucco panels and grand baroque styling.
Hartwell is not a super slick, polished modern resort, but it is an excellent hotel with buckets of charm where the staff endeavour to treat guests like royalty. The hushed rooms look out on 90 acres of parkland that can be viewed from the numerous window seats or a squishy sofa by a crackling fireplace. The floorboards creak just enough to remind you that you’re walking through centuries of history (and hope it is only another guest you can hear).
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Location
Hartwell, located as it is in acres of parkland on the edge of the Chilterns, feels a million miles from anywhere, but is in fact just 40 miles north west of London and moments from a main road. The nearest stations are Haddenham & Thame Parkway and Aylesbury, with regular fast (about 37 minutes) services from London Marylebone and Birmingham. The hotel is just under 20 miles from Bicester Village, about half an hour by road, and is also convenient for Oxford. Helicopter landings can be prearranged.
Rooms & Suites
There are 48 rooms and suites, all with their own unique character, but with the traditional country house style woven through them all.
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The rooms are arranged over three locations: the main house, Hartwell Court and the Old Rectory, which is ideal for small intimate gatherings. In the main house, guests can choose from classic double rooms while classic double and queen size are available in Hartwell Court.
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Of those, the Royal Suites and Rooms situated in the main house are the standouts. Spear’s stayed in one of the royal four-poster rooms. This one had been the French queen’s bedroom, Marie Josephine of Savoy, a vast chamber with a four-poster bed, generous dressing area and its own sitting room in a muted palette of rich creams, greens and damasks.
Georgian windows with enticing window seats look out over the parkland, perhaps the jewel in the hotel’s crown – no matter what time of year.
The ensuite retains the old English style (including separate taps) and Quercus Penhaligon toiletries. For anyone familiar with National Trust properties, staying in this room feels very much like being on the other side of the velvet rope.
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The grandeur of the room and vistas were not enough to keep the French queen happy; according to a notice in our room, the queen ‘took to the bottle’ in her despair at her damp English exile.
Food and Drink
Afternoon tea is a must. Taken in one of the drawing rooms, the spread includes the standard finger sandwiches, enormous buttery scones with clotted cream and jam and an assortment of pastries and cakes. There is a good selection of teas, including green and herbal, and English sparkling wine or champagne are also available. Guests can lounge for as long as they wish.
Hartwell has an evening dress code, so guests will need to remember to pack smart evening clothes (no trainers or jeans). Despite the formality and the intimate nature of the drawing room, dinner at Hartwell continues the theme of low-key elegance, all gently flickering candles, crisp white tablecloths and a tinkering pianist.
The menu (or ‘bill of fare) leans classic British with a few inventive flourishes. We ate scallops paired with pork belly in a rich, well-balanced sauce, expertly executed. A plate of arancini butternut squash with silky squash purée was another highlight was the rich cheese soufflé and the crusty sourdough and soft olive focaccia served with salty pesto butter.
Dessert was a bowl full of sorbet and an inventive – very Instagrammable – vanilla mousse, rhubarb and white chocolate namelaka with rhubarb compote and salted pecan praline ice cream that looked like a Joan Miró painting.
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Breakfast is served in the same room as dinner, although transformed in the morning into a light-filled room with generous views over the gardens. It is a classic English spread, with a selection of things on toast: eggs, smoked salmon, avocado.
Amenities
The grounds play a vital role in the Hartwell experience. Designed by a contemporary of Capability Brown they are sprawling and are well worth carving out time to explore.
A spa is housed in a separate building that was once the stables. There is a serene Roman bath-inspired pool, steam room and small sauna in the respective changing rooms. Take time to stroll around the beautiful grounds – there’s plenty to explore (can you find the tennis court?) in any season.
Service
Service throughout the stay was quietly impeccable. Staff are friendly without being overfamiliar, attentive without hovering.
Verdict
A little lived in and deeply comfortable, Hartwell House is indeed a special place whose ‘green abode’ it is difficult to leave.
Details
Starting rate: £283
Nearest airport: Less than an hour’s drive from Heathrow, Stansted and Luton
Address: Lower Hartwell, Vale of Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire HP17 8NR
Email for reservations: info@hartwell-house.com
Website: www.hartwell-house.com
