For those seeking an extraordinary gastronomic adventure, there is still no city like Paris, and at the centre of its culinary excellence is Épicure at Le Bristol, a Michelin-star-laden restaurant that offers an unparalleled – and uniquely French – experience.
Its blend of exquisite cuisine, luxurious ambience and top-tier service stands among the finest the city – and world – has to offer. This most storied of restaurants may riff on its history, but its success depends on it moving with the times. At the helm of Épicure’s next chapter is head chef Arnaud Faye, whose focus is on cuisine that celebrates the simplicity and essence of raw materials with French culinary tradition at its heart.
Location
Épicure occupies a stately room overlooking the gardens at the Le Bristol, the jewel in Paris’s hotel crown, which is located on a quiet street, minutes from the Champs-Élysées and the Élysée Palace. Its location and Gallic glamour mean it is not unusual for visiting heads of state and Oscar nominees to be hanging out in the lobby or dining at the next table.
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Interiors
The room is an extension of the hotel’s refined elegance. The dining room is adorned with Louis XVI furnishings, ornate mirrors and expansive French windows that open onto a meticulously manicured garden. Hotel guests can book breakfast at Épicure when the morning light further emphasises the serene backdrop.
Food & drink
There’s a quiet revolution going on in French cuisine. The foam, the starched white table cloths, butter and cream drenched dishes are making way for something altogether lighter, fresher and creative.
One of this movement’s figureheads is Arnaud Faye, who took over as head chef at Épicure in April 2024, filling the very large shoes of Éric Frechon, who garnered three Michelin stars in his 25 years in these famous kitchens.
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A tough act to follow but Faye, whose CV includes the Paris Ritz, has already stamped his signature style on this legendary restaurant. While classic French cooking is the cornerstone of his cuisine, Faye has taken traditional techniques and sprinkled them with contemporary twists, using vegetable juices and extracts in place of heavy cream and butter.
The chef had earlier told Spears in his office in his incredibly calm and ordered kitchen that his biggest inspiration is ‘nature’, and this comes through in his cooking. He focuses on the raw ingredients with an emphasis on quality and freshness.
His six-course tasting menu is a testament to his dedication to sourcing the finest ingredients and his impeccable technique. Faye’s deep respect for French cooking shines through, from the delicate Normandie sea scallops to the Bresse chicken poached in its bladder and accompanied by black truffle. His approach turns a plate of carrots into something sublime that mixes texture and taste, raising the humble vegetable well above its station.
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Another vegetable dish, a (surprise) celeriac risotto, may even have been the highlight. Delectably creamy, the bright freshness of the celeriac shone through and elevated it to a dish that deserves to be remembered for a lifetime.
Perhaps most refreshing of all was the vegetarian tasting menu that has had as much thought and attention given to it as the omnivores’ – a status rarely bestowed on plant eaters in high French culinary circles.
Among the highlights was a gnocchi in watercress sauce that had a satisfying crunch to it and the sauce so delicious it begged to be mopped up with the light-as-air fresh bread that is baked on the premises.
The restaurant’s commitment to excellence is evident in every course, from the amuse-bouche to the decadent honey (from the hotel’s bees) and pollen ice cream with citrus fruits and ginger that arrived dramatically shrouded in smoke. And let’s not forget the groaning cheese table – forget a mere board, that covered every fromage-making corner of France. Naturally, the wine list is mind-blowingly impressive and selected with precision by Serge the sommelier from the restaurant’s very lengthy wine list (there are about 3,000 wines on offer), including a rich and intense 2014 Domaine des Lises Crozes-Hermitage Vignes Franches.
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Service
Service is impeccable but with the top button metaphorically loosened under the new chef. The staff are attentive, knowledgeable and discreet, ensuring that every guest feels pampered and well-cared but without being stifled. Their professionalism and warmth contribute significantly to the experience.
Verdict
Épicure has long been a destination restaurant, and under Faye, it maintains its place at the very top of the culinary scene. Épicure is a must-do for any gastronome.
Details
Épicure, Le Bristol
+33 1 53 43 43 40
oetkercollection.com
Tasting menu starts at 380 euros
