Even without actual jazz, Le Caprice has a jazzy vibe – it’s the black and white décor, the Bailey photographs on the walls, the snap in the service. It makes sense, then, for them to bring some proper bebop to the restaurant on the last Sunday of the month.
‘Le Caprice Jazz Sessions with Martell and Jazz FM’ is a bit of a mouthful, but not one that keeps you from the evening’s proper mouthfuls or earfuls. As my starter – salmon tartare, salty and sweet rather than spicy – arrived, Julia Biel struck up. Her voice is also salty and sweet, pitched high and slow.
You can watch one of her videos here.
With a tinge of Amy Winehouse (RIP, in ours hearts forever), Biel was sultry through her set, and while she kept your attention, she never demanded it, which is exactly as it should be with music while dining.
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My main course was Thai-baked sea bass, a house speciality, which verges on satay but is rather subtler. The fish flaked apart handsomely and the fragrant rice – so often a parody, even in Thai restaurants – was light and as melodious as Biel.
The only bum note was one of the special cocktails created with Martell’s cognac. I have been a firm believer that brandy should be kept away from non-creamy cocktails (so long, Sidecars), and the Bebop did nothing to change my mind.
The heavy cognac hit had that cardboard effect on your mouth but with none of the sweetness of the apricot liqueur or satsuma juice in the drink.
Still, who can worry about that when the food and the jazz are so in tune?
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