The Connaught Grill, nestled within The Connaught hotel in London’s Mayfair has a rich history dating back to the early 1900s. Throughout the mid-20th century, the restaurant became synonymous with luxury British cuisine but in 2008, its doors closed when the hotel underwent a major refurbishment. The decision was met with disappointment from many long-time patrons and food critics who had cherished the Grill’s British heritage and commitment to culinary excellence.
Just over a decade later, the hiatus ended and the restaurant was revived under the leadership of visionary three Michelin-starred chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten who owns establishments in Shanghai, Tokyo, Las Vegas and Miami.
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Interiors
Masterfully designed by acclaimed interior designer John Heah — whose notable projects include the upcoming Clinique La Prairie outpost in Saudi Arabia, the Amanvari on the Baja Coast in Mexico and a new range of suites at The Berkeley — The Connaught Grill exudes a distinctly British elegance. With its dark panelled wood furniture, red leather-backed chairs and coffered ceilings, the atmosphere is purposefully intimate and casually relaxed.
The restaurant is one of the hotel’s smaller dining venues and can seat up to 40 guests. Spear’s recommends making a reservation in advance or arriving at dinner nearer its opening time at 6pm.
Dining
The cuisine at The Connaught Grill is traditionally British with a modern and eclectic twist. Central to the restaurant’s offerings is its wood-burning grill which is used in preparing most of the dishes on the wide ranging menu.
When Spear’s paid a visit to the restaurant, we were guided by our expert and attentive waiter, Matthew, whose recommendations informed our meal. The starters are especially noteworthy and include a delightful yellowfin tuna carpaccio, an artfully arranged dish of thinly sliced tuna topped with salty capers, crispy shallots and a citrusy yuzu sauce; fresh scallops smothered in a seaweed and herb butter; and a surprisingly satisfying plate of heirloom beetroot which is undoubtedly the hidden gem on the menu. The beetroot is prepared three ways: steamed, sautéed and smoked offering a variety of textures and flavours on the plate.
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The main course offerings are ideal for those who enjoy traditional steakhouse fare. Like anything at The Connaught, it’s delivered with an upscale flair. Guests can choose from a range including a Japanese kobe beef and a home-grown 28-day-aged tomahawk steak. This can be served alongside a wide array of sauces such as a roasted bone marrow gravy, fiery salsa verde and a classic peppercorn sauce. The Connaught Grill provides thoughtful touches throughout the meal — one example is the selection of your own steak knife, each with its own unique history and intricately carved in different parts of the world.
[See also: Kioku offers a unique Japanese dining experience]
While the vegetarian options are slightly limited, pescatarians will be spoilt for choice with a menu that includes fresh Scottish lobster, dover sole, salmon, and red mullet — all seafood options are served alongside a sweet radish salad. Spear’s opted for the ‘catch of the day’ which at the time of our visit was a buttery John Dory on a bed of garlicky spinach.
Desserts are a triumph at The Connaught Grill. While the restaurant is renowned for its grill, equal attention has been made to satisfying the discerning sweet tooth. The highlight of the meal was a rhubarb and strawberry pie. Pleasantly tangy and sugary, it might be one of the best desserts we’ve sampled in London. For those who’d like to try it for themselves, it will be available throughout the summer months but as per The Connaught’s commitment to serve the freshest produce to its guests, the menu shifts according to season.
Service
Attentive, knowledgeable and friendly — the staff at The Connaught Grill make expert recommendations and are dedicated to ensuring that guests leave feeling satisfied and satiated.
Final Verdict
The Connaught Grill achieves an impressive feat in maintaining a connection to its storied past all while appealing to contemporary diners. Its rich history, luxurious setting, exceptional service and outstanding cuisine create an experience truly worth savouring.
