Once the heart of British national newspapers, Fleet Street experienced a decline after the journalists and printers moved out, despite the presence of such financial titans as Goldman Sachs and C. Hoare & Co, England’s oldest privately owned bank. But there are signs that the story isn’t over for this famous thoroughfare, and it is now on the cusp of something of a revival.
A pointer to Fleet Street’s reinvention is CORD by Le Cordon Bleu, the first fine dining establishment in London by the legendary Parisian culinary school, Le Cordon Bleu. Opened in 2022 and led by executive chef Karl O’Dell, this dining experience pays homage to the academy’s 130-year legacy at the forefront of modern culinary culture.
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Interiors
CORD is richly decorated in hues of midnight and turquoise blue. The space is designed around an open plan kitchen, with tables arranged so guests can watch the chefs as they skillfully prepare the dishes.
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This connection between guests and chefs, and preparation and eating, continues throughout the restaurant, from the glass-brick partitions to the wine fridges that line the back of the restaurant; there are no hidden corners.
The velvet chairs provide both comfort and elegance, illuminated by warm light from the ceiling. Seasonal floral displays decorate each table, and floor-to-ceiling windows allow ample natural light. A perfect environment for both lunch meetings and intimate evening meals.
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Dining
The summer seven-course tasting menu showcases a mix of the season’s most prized produce from the land and the sea. Each dish is a delight to the eyes as well as a treat for the taste buds, from canapes served on rock arrangements to the mysterious ‘gin & tonic’ course. Each dish evoked the circular logo of CORD in some way, either through the shape of the plate, the drizzle of sauces or the roundness of a tartare.
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Spear’s favoured the salt marsh lamb shanks and barbecue monkfish. Served on slate and surrounded by woodland foliage, the rosy lamb shanks came accompanied by an olive leather, fresh grilled asparagus and a crepe; the subtle bitterness of the asparagus and olive brought out the sweetness of the tender lamb. The monkfish, a CORD speciality we were told, came beautifully charred and sweetened with molasses and was served with torched avocado and basil puree.
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A memorable part of the meal is the mushroom course. Presented on a log, sweet, sliced mushrooms served on a crispbread came garnished with lily pads. Under a glass cloche, what appears to be a whole black truffle is revealed to be a rich ganache encased in dark chocolate when tapped with a knife.
Dessert is a medley of mangoes, from rolled-up mango to mango sorbet, balanced by warm ginger and lemongrass sauce that cuts through the sweetness, leaving diners satisfied without the heaviness of a seven-course dinner.
Be sure not to miss the citrus and mushroom butters that are available throughout the menu.
For wine enthusiasts, a selection of fine wines is offered, including the luxurious 2022 Dr Burklin Wolf Riesling, which pairs beautifully with the fish courses.
Service
While Le Cordon Bleu may be a culinary school, there was nothing naïve about the service received at CORD. Hosts are delighted to guide guests through the tasting menu with an assured and practiced air, keeping them in step with the thoughtful wine pairings and sharing the story behind the dishes.
Verdict
A relaxed, intimate and elegant atmosphere, CORD ties together lovely food, an inviting atmosphere and professional service to curate an exceptional dining experience.
Details
CORD by Le Cordon Bleu, 85 Fleet Street, London EC4Y 1AE
