Kioku restaurant, situated on the rooftop of Raffles London at The OWO, is the latest addition to the nine restaurants in the hotel. Raffles is not the only exciting name attached to the restaurant – at its helm is Michelin-starred Endo Kazutoshi. A third-generation sushi master, Endo combines his Japanese heritage with Mediterranean influences gleaned on his journeys around Europe.
Location
Nestled on the sixth floor of the former War Office in Whitehall, Kioku’s address is certainly impressive. Raffles first outpost in London is a masterful refurbishment of a building which was once the headquarters for statesmen such as Winston Churchill and the inspiration for Ian Fleming’s James Bond novels.
At the heart of the seat of the British government, Whitehall may be more known for politics than its partying, but its location offers unexpected highlights. The view from the restaurant is arguably one of the best in town, with guests at Kioku treated to a 360 degree view of many of London’s major landmarks, including Big Ben, the London Eye and Tower Bridge.
Interiors
Design studio Pirajean Lees are behind the interiors and the duo have carried the Japanese Mediterranean theme from plate to decor. There is a calming tonal palette with traditional British rich wood panelling and Japanese linen embroidered with blossoms adorning the soft furnishings. On the ceiling twinkles a moon mural, painted by British artist Tess Newall, which in Japanese culture represents immortality and longevity.
Tucked away off the main dining room, but close enough to maintain the atmosphere, is the eight seater chef’s table. Regularly hosted by chef Endo himself, guests can slide the doors open for a bird’s eye view of the esteemed sushi master creating their 11-course menu.
For an even more exclusive dining experience, there is the eight-seater private dining room situated inside one of the building’s most iconic turrets. The old bell tower has been renovated with large windows wrapping the room for guests to enjoy panoramic cityscape views.
Food & Drink
Kioku, meaning ‘memory,’ defines Chef Endo’s concept. Drawing on his Japanese heritage and experiences of travelling around Europe, he curates a menu with traditional Japanese dishes such as sashimi and nigiri touched with Mediterranean influences.
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Dishes include a genius take on pesto pasta, with cuttlefish precisely trimmed into tagliatelle shape, topped with pesto laced with nori. Another stand-out is the yellowtail starter. The delicately sweet fish is balanced with a punchy sobacha guanciale crumb finished with caviar adding a salty kick for a wonderful umami mouthful. For a heartier meal guests can explore the main course selection that includes monkfish in a zingy ginger broth and A5 grade wagyu.
In a unique concept, Chef Endo has created a bespoke ‘tuna trolley’ for guests to enjoy table-side, served by one of the many expert sushi chefs.
The cocktail menu is niche and expertly curated. Ingredients such as yuzu and nori are again married seamlessly with Spanish and Italian flavours such as padron peppers and pistachio.
If that was not enough, guests at Kioku are also treated with the largest Saké selection in Europe, curated by Saké Samurai Natsuki Kikuya. This could be exciting and daunting in equal measure, but Saké Sommelier Anthony Yukio is on-hand to recommend the perfect pairing for every dish.
For guests who aren’t quite ready to leave after the bill, the Kioku bar is on the ground floor for a nightcap.
Service
Service is friendly, casual, attentive, and impressively knowledgeable about not just about dishes on the menu but the wider context of ingredients which piece the dishes together.
Worth knowing
For a soothing live music experience, be sure to book a table Thursday-Saturday, although if Chef Endo’s latest project is anything like the previous, getting a table can be a luxury in itself – book well in advance.
The verdict
A unique Japanese dining experience served with a large slice of British wartime history.
