Long a symbol of status and elegance, the top hat was once a staple of everyday attire for the impeccably-dressed gentleman.
Fashion historians trace the top hat’s origins to the ‘sugar loaf’ hats – tall, tapered styles with slightly rounded conical crowns that were popular in medieval times. Early versions were made from beaver fur that was matted, boiled and shaped into a smooth felt-like finish. These were eventually replaced with silk top hats in the 18th century, with the first in England credited to Middlesex hatter George Dunnage in 1793.
Today, the top hat is reserved for the most formal occasions and one place where the top hat is still a condition of entry is the Royal Enclosure at Ascot.
[See also: Seeing and being seen at Ascot]
Vintage silk plush styles, prized for their lustre and lightness, are especially coveted. These hats were made using silk with a long, velvety nap that gives the hat its distinctive high shine. The plush was stretched over a stiff gossamer shell to create the iconic shape. In 1968, the only factory capable of producing silk plush ceased operations due to declining demand. With the factory’s closure, the fabric vanished from production entirely, leaving a finite global supply.
[See also: A rare diamond steeped in royal history is going up for sale]
While the top hat may never reach the peak of its 19th-century popularity again, demand for top hats – whether antique silk or modern counterparts in wool felt or fur – rises with the season. In this guide, London’s leading hatters and go-to tailors cover everything you need to know about the top hat, from finding the perfect fit to styling and care.
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Finding the perfect fit
At Mayfair’s Lock & Co., a Royal Warrant holder and the world’s oldest hat shop, the fitting process is rooted in history.
‘We begin by measuring the customer’s head to establish the correct size,’ says managing director Ben Dalrymple. ‘Then we use a conformateur – a 19th-century invention – to capture the unique shape of their head. This ensures the best possible fit from our wide range of ready-made top hats.’
Though Lock & Co. doesn’t offer bespoke top hats from scratch, its refined fitting techniques mean that everyone can find a comfortable and elegant option.
‘If someone’s head size or shape falls outside standard sizing, we have a variety of techniques to cater to their unique measurements,’ Dalrymple explains.
Choosing a fabric
British tailor Oliver Brown owns the world’s largest collection of top hats, including rare silk styles.
‘Our speciality lies in antique silk top hats, which are regarded as the ultimate in refinement for Royal Ascot,’ says owner Kristian Ferner Robson. ‘These hats, made from a unique silk plush that is no longer in production since the 1960s, are prized for their lustrous finish, lightness, and timeless shape.’
For those seeking alternatives, Oliver Brown recommends Melusine fur felt top hats – crafted to mimic the antique silk’s luxurious feel – and entry-level wool felt styles for newcomers or those hiring.
Buying vs hiring
Hiring a top hat is an appealing option for one-off events, like Ascot. Oliver Brown is one of the hatters offering daily rentals in both wool felt and Melusine styles as part of its full morning suit packages.
But, there are advantages to buying a top hat, says Robson. ‘Owning your own top hat offers a superior fit, finish, and long-term value, especially if you typically attend Royal Ascot annually.’
With ownership comes the ability to tailor, polish and store your hat properly, essential for preserving both form and function.
Restoring vintage hats
If you’ve inherited a vintage top hat or found a silk piece in need of love, restoration services are available.
‘Our Master Hatter offers expert resizing services by carefully stretching or reducing the hat to achieve the perfect fit while preserving the integrity of the piece,’ says Dalrymple.
Restoration can include re-blocking, re-lining, and replacing sweatbands.
Caring for your hat
Proper care is essential, especially with antique silk.
‘Never place your top hat on its crown,’ Robson warns. ‘This can damage the silk over time, and since the material is no longer produced, it is difficult and costly to repair or replace.’
Instead, always rest it on the brim and store it in a dedicated hat box.
Both Oliver Brown and Lock & Co. recommend brushing the hat gently with a soft brush before storing and using gloves or clean hands when handling silk plush. For Ascot season, a professional clean and reshape is advised.
Etiquette in the Royal Enclosure
For the Royal Enclosure, a black or grey top hat is mandatory, and how you wear it matters just as much.
‘A properly fitted top hat should sit flat on the head, about half an inch above the ear,’ says Robson. ‘It should be worn straight – not tipped too far forward or back.’
Avoid embellishments like coloured hat bands or feathers, which break from tradition, and skip the sunglasses while wearing a top hat as they disrupt the classic silhouette.
Confidence and posture complete the look. ‘Wear it with good posture and composure,’ Robson adds. ‘A well-fitted top hat worn correctly brings together the whole look.’
Styling tips
While the top hat has remained largely unchanged, the way it’s styled has evolved.
Robson recommends styling it with accessories to add distinction: ‘It’s a great opportunity to add personality through the waistcoat, tie and pocket square.’
Equestrian-themed silk ties and matching cufflinks are perennial favourites at Ascot.
There are also practical considerations. ‘A top tip for a hot Royal Ascot is to put ice in the back of your hat,’ Robson advises. ‘It’s the nicest thing in the world.’
Another is more pragmatic: ‘Label your top hat on the inside so they don’t get mixed up on the day – you’d be surprised how often it happens.’
Tradition dictates that antique top hats are best paired with black or grey morning suits, and you can style your waistcoat with a white slip for extra polish.
But the underlying rule is always the same: dress with formality, elegance and respect for the occasion.
Royal Ascot 2025 takes place from Tuesday 17 June to Saturday 21 June.
